How To Buy Gemstones
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Keeping to a perfect shape (round, square, and so on) is also important. Often you can see ‘round’ stones that are actually semi ovals. This is unacceptable. Of course, you may be so taken by the fantastic color of a stone, for instance, that you decide to accept such a defect in the cutting. But then always bargain for a better price. Never accept an answer like “this is how it goes in rubies” or “ovals can never be perfectly symmetrical”. It’s just not true.
The classic diamond cut is made by making 58 facets across the stone. It is important to check (with a magnifying glass) that all facet junctions – the place where one facet meets another – are precise, and that one facet does not just cover the other. And finally, the polish of the facets is crucial for excellent results. The difference between a professional polish (the single most labor-intensive process in the production chain) and a poor one can be spotted immediately with the naked eye.
Cutting techniques have evolved dramatically over the last century. These days, there are dozens of ways to cut a stone with many variations on each classic cut. The classic, and most famous is the diamond cut (otherwise known as the ‘brilliant cut’). There is no doubt that in round stones this cut is the most beautiful one (when done properly). Others are the step cut, where the facets go down from the girdle to the culet step by step, a method that helps to preserve more weight. This is the customary cut for ovals, emerald cut and pear shape.[ not clear what this means]
Cabochon (a smooth dome) cut is also a traditional cut, and it is lovely in the right materials. It differs from the other cuts in that it has no facets at all, and it is used in opaque stones or in highly included ones. Checkerboard is a cut where side A has no table (the top flat board in regular cut) and instead it is covered with facets that resemble a checker board. Beware: usually stones are cut in this way to hide inclusions. So if the seller claims a checkerboard cut stone is completely clean, check the stone very carefully.
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